Messina-Style Arancini

1. The rice

1. Bring to the boil. Put the stock, butter, saffron and salt in a wide pot and bring to the boil.
2. Cook by absorption. Tip in the rice, stir once, then cover and cook on the lowest heat for about 15–18 minutes, until all the liquid is absorbed and the rice is just al dente. Don't stir it like a risotto.
3. Cool it quickly. Stir through the grated cheese if using, then spread the rice in a thin layer on a large tray and leave it to cool. For the easiest shaping, cover and chill it for 3–4 hours or overnight.

Tip: Don't rinse the rice, and keep egg and fresh cheese out of it. Rice that is dry and cool releases cleanly from the mould. If it sticks, add a little more butter next time.

2. The ragù

1. Brown. Soften the onion in olive oil, then add the guanciale, pork and beef and brown well.
2. Add peas and wine. Stir in the peas and pour in the wine.
3. Simmer. Add the tomato paste dissolved in a glass of water, the bay leaf, a pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper. Simmer gently until reduced and thick.
4. Add the mortadella. Halfway through cooking, stir in the diced mortadella. Cool completely and remove the bay leaf.

3. Shape with the mould

1. Fill the base. Pack the base of the Arancini Mould Punta Slim 160 g with rice and press it in firmly with a teaspoon.
2. Make the hollow. Fit the ring on top and push the plunger down to make a deep pocket for the filling.
3. Add the filling. Spoon or pipe in the ragù, pressing it down so each arancino is generously filled. Leave about 2 cm free at the top.
4. Seal it. Cover with a thin layer of rice and press it closed with the flat end of the plunger.
5. Turn it out. Lift off the ring, turn the mould over and let the arancino drop out.
6. Firm it up. Put the arancini in the freezer for 1–2 hours (or the fridge for 3–4 hours) so they hold their shape when coated and fried.

Tip: No mould? Cup some rice in your palm, press a well in the middle, add the filling, cover with more rice and roll it closed. A mould gives every arancino the same shape and a far more generous filling.

4. Coat and fry

1. Make the batter. Whisk the flour, cold water and egg (if using) into a smooth, thick batter.
2. Coat. Dip each one in the batter, let the excess drip off, then roll it in the breadcrumbs, pressing gently so they stick.
3. Heat the oil. Heat the oil in a deep, heavy pot or fryer to 180–190 °C. Use a frying thermometer, or drop in a few breadcrumbs: they should sizzle straight away.
4. Fry. Fry two or three at a time for 4–5 minutes, turning, until deep golden all over.
5. Drain and rest. Drain on paper towel and rest for 5 minutes before serving. The centre stays very hot.

Tip: Don't crowd the pot. Too many at once cools the oil, and the arancini soak up oil and can split.

Make it your own

Everyone makes arancini a little differently, and every Sicilian family will tell you theirs is the right way. Use this recipe as a starting point and adjust it to suit your taste: more or less cheese, a different filling, saffron or no saffron, round or cone-shaped.

No mortadella? Use ham. Every family in Messina has its own version, so make it yours. Write down what you changed so your next batch turns out just the way you like it.