Grappa Explained: Italy's Pomace Spirit and the Alembic Tradition

Australian legal note: In Australia, distilling alcohol of any kind, including grappa-style spirit, requires an excise manufacturer licence, and the ATO does not grant licences to distil spirits for personal consumption. A still over 5 litres also needs ATO permission to own. This article is about grappa as an Italian tradition and is general information for enjoying it and for licensed operations, not legal advice. See the ATO guidance on stills.

Ask an Italian nonno about grappa and you will probably get a story before you get a definition. For many Italian families it is the small glass that comes out after a long Sunday lunch, the splash in the morning espresso, or the bottle that only appears for visitors. It is one of the most Italian things you can pour, and it starts with something most people would throw away.

Here is what grappa actually is, how it is traditionally made in Italy, the main styles you will see on a bottle shop shelf, and how to enjoy it properly.

What is grappa?

Grappa is an Italian pomace brandy. It is distilled from pomace: the grape skins, seeds and bits of stem left over after grapes have been pressed for winemaking.

That is the key difference between grappa and other grape brandies. Brandy and cognac are distilled from finished wine. Grappa is distilled from the solid leftovers. It was born out of the farmhouse habit of wasting nothing: once the juice had gone off to become wine, the skins still held aroma, flavour and a little sugar and alcohol, and the family made use of them.

In the European Union the name "grappa" is protected as a geographical indication and reserved for pomace spirit made in Italy, much as Champagne is reserved for wine from that region of France. Similar pomace spirits are made elsewhere, under other names: marc in France, orujo in Spain and bagaceira in Portugal, for example.

How grappa is traditionally made in Italy

This is a description of the traditional Italian process, not a how-to. In Australia this work can only be done legally by a licensed operation.

1. Fresh pomace from the harvest

Everything starts at vintage. The quality of grappa depends heavily on the pomace being fresh and handled carefully. Pomace from red winemaking has usually already fermented with the juice, so the skins carry some alcohol. Pomace from white grapes is pressed off before fermentation, so it is usually fermented separately before distilling.

If you make wine at home, you will know this stage well. Our step-by-step winemaking guide and our piece on grape fermentation explain where pomace comes from in the first place.

2. Distilling the solids

Because pomace is mostly solid, it cannot simply be poured into a pot like wine. If it sits directly on a flame-heated base, it can scorch and spoil the flavour. Italian distillers developed gentler methods:

• Bain-marie (bagnomaria): the pot of pomace sits inside a bath of hot water, so the heat is gentle and even, like a double boiler in the kitchen.
• Steam distillation (a vapore): steam is pushed up through a bed of pomace, carrying the aromatic and alcoholic compounds out with it.
• Direct fire (a fuoco diretto): the traditional farmhouse method, with the still heated directly. It needs careful heat control and plenty of experience.

Artisan grappa is usually made in batches in copper pot stills, the classic alembic, although larger producers also use continuous stills. Copper helps clean up sulphur aromas from fermentation. Our guide to copper stills and alembics goes into why copper matters.

3. Cuts, resting and reducing

Like any distillate, a grappa run is divided into heads, hearts and tails, with the distiller keeping the clean, aromatic middle portion. You can read about the general idea in Making Cuts: Heads, Hearts and Tails. The spirit is then rested and reduced with water to bottling strength. Licensed producers check strength with instruments such as a grappa alcohol hydrometer (30-60%).

Styles of grappa you will see

Italian labels use a handful of terms that tell you a lot about what is in the bottle:

• Giovane (young): unaged, clear and bright. The purest expression of the grape.
• Affinata or invecchiata (aged): rested in wood for a period, picking up colour and softer, rounder notes.
• Aromatica: made from aromatic grape varieties such as Moscato, with a strongly floral nose.
• Monovitigno: made mainly from one grape variety, often named on the label, for example Nebbiolo or Chardonnay.
• Aromatizzata (flavoured): infused after distilling with herbs, fruit or spices.

Every region has its own character too. The north of Italy, including Veneto, Friuli, Trentino and Piedmont, has particularly strong grappa traditions, but you will find it made right across the country.

How to enjoy grappa

Use the right glass

Forget the thick shot glass. Grappa is best in a small tulip-shaped glass. The narrow top gathers the aroma so you can actually smell it. Pour a small measure and give it a moment in the glass before you taste.

Serve it at the right temperature

Young grappa is often served lightly chilled. Aged grappa is usually served at cool room temperature so its softer wood notes can come through. Very cold temperatures numb the aroma, so do not leave it in the freezer.

Sip slowly

Grappa is a digestivo, traditionally sipped after a meal. Smell it first, take a small sip and let it sit on your tongue. A good grappa should be aromatic and warming, not harsh.

Caffè corretto

The other great Italian ritual is caffè corretto: an espresso "corrected" with a splash of grappa. In some homes, a little grappa is also swirled into the empty espresso cup to pick up the last of the coffee. Every family has its own way of doing it.

Remember that grappa is a full-strength spirit. Enjoy it in small measures and keep track of how much you have had. Our article on how standard drinks are calculated explains how much alcohol is in a typical pour.

Grappa and the Italian family table

For many Italian families, grappa is tied up with memories of parents and grandparents, vintage time, and long tables in the backyard. Making wine, passata and salami at home all come from the same instinct: making the most of the season and wasting nothing.

That spirit is what our Italian copper alembics come from too. In Australia, small alembics of 5 litres or less can be owned and used for non-alcohol distilling, such as essential oils and floral waters, without ATO permission. Distilling grappa or any other spirit needs an excise manufacturer licence.

Frequently asked questions

What is grappa made from?

Grappa is made from grape pomace, the skins, seeds and stems left over after grapes are pressed for winemaking. It is distilled from these solids, not from finished wine.

What is the difference between grappa and brandy?

Brandy is distilled from wine. Grappa is distilled from pomace. In the EU, the name grappa is also reserved for pomace spirit made in Italy.

How do you drink grappa?

Sip it slowly after a meal from a small tulip-shaped glass. Young grappa is often lightly chilled and aged grappa served at cool room temperature. It is also added to espresso to make caffè corretto.

Can I make grappa at home in Australia?

No, not legally without a licence. Distilling alcohol requires an excise manufacturer licence, and the ATO does not grant licences to distil spirits for personal consumption. Check the ATO guidance on stills for details.

What can I do with pomace from home winemaking?

Many home winemakers compost their pomace or dig it into the garden. It is rich in organic matter and breaks down well.